Baked Red Snapper

Fish. I've met some folks who really don't like it. Others claim to like it as long as it isn't "fishy". Some folks I know enjoy fish just fine, but can't handle it appearing on the serving plate with the head and tail intact. We all have our hangups. Fish is not one of mine. In fact, I'll take it over beef or chicken in most instances. (Nothing wins out against pork and lamb in my world, but a nice piece of fish is hard to beat).

The problem for many who would eat fish more often is how to go about it. How do you know which fish is a good one? How do you cook it? We live in a world where sushi joints have their fish flown in, so even those in land locked places can shell out the bucks to enjoy good quality raw fish. Farmed salmon and tilapia are everywhere, along with tuna and sea bass, but try finding fresh flounder in the Southwest. For all of our interconnectedness the fish counter often smacks of regionalism, if only in its pricing. That's not entirely a bad thing. I'm happy to eat lobster in Maine, Dungeness Crab in the Northwest and Blue Point Oysters in NYC. I want Blue Crabs in Maryland and catfish in the Deep South, but no matter where I happen to be I don't want to go too long without a fish dinner. Blame it on being raised Catholic.

Fortunately one of our best fishes is fairly ubiquitous: the red snapper. Very tasty fish. This fish makes Europeans jealous. They have their sea bream and their Dover sole, but the red snapper is about as good a fish as they come. The meat is delicate, yet it can stand up to bold flavors. It's forgiving - it can be prepared in a variety of ways, all equally good. And best of all it's relatively inexpensive, as far as fish goes. I got one yesterday that was just under three pounds, easily enough to feed five or six (or in my case four, with leftovers) for $15. Depending on where you live it may be a little more expensive, but it's not nearly as pricey as trendier choices, such as ahi tuna or Chilean Sea Bass.

I had my fishmonger scale and gut the snapper, leaving the head and tail on. This is standard issue, and I don't know how to ask for it any other way in Cantonese (or Mandarin, for that matter), so that's how I get it. That's how I recommend getting it, unless looking at a whole fish on a plate squicks you. Season it just about any way you like: butter & lemon, Cajun style, Caribbean style, whatever. The fish picks up the flavor of whatever it's baked with. I wanted simple and elegant, so I used onion, celery and rosemary, which worked beautifully. Thyme would have worked equally well. Along the center of the fish the fillets will be mostly free of bones. Meat from the top and bottom will be richer, but bonier. All of it will be delicious. Use a knife and a spatula to serve.

2-3 lb whole red snapper, scaled and cleaned
small onion, chopped
2-3 ribs celery, chopped
4-6 sprigs rosemary
Olive oil, salt and pepper

Heat oven to 375 degrees. Mix together onion, celery and most of the rosemary in a bowl, with a splash of olive oil, salt and pepper. Lay remaining sprigs of rosemary on baking dish, and place fish on top of them. Fill the cavity of the fish with the vegetable mixture, then use remainder to cover fish. Bake for about 35 minutes, or until meat flakes with a fork.

Serve with roasted tomatoes, potatoes or rice, a salad and dry white (or rose) wine. Leftovers can be reheated the next day, or served as a cold salad in vinaigrette.

Enjoy your fish. (The aftermath won't be so bad, as long as you get to the baking dish right after eating, and remember to take the garbage out that night!)