Sorry I've been away for so long. Been doing the rock and roll thing: a couple weeks rehearsing in LA, then a week in Tokyo playing shows with Julian Casablancas. It's a pretty top gig: great music, travel and incredibly cool people to work with. (Not to mention how good LA and Tokyo were to a spoiled New Yorker out looking for a bite to eat, even on the cheap). Upon arriving home to the Lower East Side NYC's summer had faded, with the specter of autumn in the night air. I was ready to eat something other than Mexican or Japanese food, of which I'd freely indulged in during my travels - preferably something home cooked and reflective of the changing season. My wife insisted on stepping up to the plate (pardon the pun).
Even though I'd been looking forward to playing around in my own kitchen after weeks on the road, I was too jet lagged to protest leaving the cooking in her capable hands. The smell of the beets roasting while we caught up over a glass of wine made for wonderful anticipation. The play of flavors - roasted beets (sweet), toasted walnuts (mellow), goat cheese (rich and sharp), salad greens in Balsamic vinaigrette (sharp and sweet)- was perfect as the evening cool set in. A couple heirloom tomatoes she'd picked up from my brother's garden even found their way onto the plate. Lucky me, I didn't have to lift a finger.
This salad isn't exactly breaking news in the food world. I remember scoffing at it as "yuppie chick food" back in the 1980's. (What can I say? Back then sushi, arugula and dry wine were considered pretentious. Goat cheese didn't stand a chance). Between the cheese and the toasted walnuts there's just enough substance to stand as a meal on its own, though it also makes an excellent first course. The classic cheese to use here is chèvre, but lower moisture goat cheeses can be substituted. If using a lower moisture cheese use less and slice it very thin (a cheese shaver works well for drier types).
As far as wine goes, this salad is friendly to many: crisp whites with good acidity and light to medium bodied reds work well. If you like whites with more residual sugar than is currently fashionable bust them out. Sparklers are a good call, too. We went with a lighter bodied red (a St Laurent from Germany). It was a great pairing.
This recipe will serve two for a light supper or a weekend lunch.
2 large beets, peeled and cut into just bigger than bite sized cubes
2 oz chèvre (or other goat cheese - see above)
handful of walnuts, roughly chopped
salad greens for two
heirloom tomato, sliced (optional)
1/2 clove garlic, finely chopped
extra virgin olive oil
Balsamic vinegar
salt and pepper, to taste
Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Toss beets in a bowl with a little olive oil (about a Tbs), salt and pepper. Place in baking dish (or tray) and roast. Depending on how tender the beets are to begin with they will cook in 40 min to an hour. (Start checking them with a fork after 40 min). They're done when they've shrunk a bit and are easily picked up by being speared with the fork. Let them cool for a few minutes (they can be served warm, but not hot).
While beets are roasting you have plenty of time to get everything else ready: Toast the walnuts in a dry pan over medium heat, shaking them around every couple minutes so they don't burn. Once they've picked up a little color cut the heat and set aside. Toss the salad greens in a bowl with a drizzle each of oil and vinegar, the chopped garlic and a pinch of salt and pepper. Arrange greens on one side of each serving plate and top with tomato slices (if using). Arrange beets on the other side of the plate, drizzle lightly with vinegar and top with walnuts and small dollops of chèvre. Serve immediately.
Thursday, September 3, 2009
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