Vin Ordinaire 3

Cheap Spring/Summer Pleasures

I've heard people say that life is too short to drink cheap wine. Nonsense. Life is too short to drink bad wine. Cheap wines that aren't at all bad have their place. For me that place is breaking the heat of the day before a light meal. Here are three serviceable daily drinkers that are very easy on the wallet and perfect for the season:

Tasca D'Almerita, Regaleali, Le Rose, Sicilia, 2007: This wine is pink - shocking pink. You can't help but notice the moment you remove the shockingly red synthetic cork. Color is the boldest statement this wine makes. There's not much on the nose, nor in the mouth, but it's light, refreshing and dry without any off flavors. At $8 a bottle that's really all I expect. It's a perfect party wine: festive, and inexpensive enough to pour freely. Five empty bottles are kicking around the apartment at the moment. That's not a testament to my finer sensibilities, but it shows the power of cheap and cheerful.

Keltenhof, Grüner Veltliner, Austria, 2007: There's a sea of inexpensive Grüner Veltliner sold in liter bottles, and this is one of the more agreeable examples. Just enough acidity to pair well with food (try it with asparagus), but light enough to quaff on its own. Think of it as a slightly more substantial alternative to Italian Pino Grigio. $14.

Earl Bardon, Lafollie, Sauvignon Blanc, Loire, 2007: There's a hint of citrus, some crispness, but not much texture in the mouth. I was left wishing this wine were a bit less simple and more elegant on the finish. Still, it delivers a Sancerre-like experience for $11 a bottle - when you figure that a decent bottle of Sancerre will set you back about thirty bucks Lafollie is a deal.