Vin Ordinaire 2, Southern Rhône

When I first got into wine Southern Rhône reds were considered “bistro wines,” in that they were somewhat undervalued and made great “house reds”. As these wines gained in popularity their prices increased to the point where they were no longer casually poured in many bistros. The Southern Rhône is where the familiar Côtes du Rhône, Côtes de Ventoux and Vacqueyras appellations are produced. These wines are usually fruity, often spicy blends that range from lighter to full bodied.

I remember a friend’s father walking me through his serious cellar over a decade ago, asking what kind of wines I liked. As I stood there looking at vertical profiles of famous vineyards I replied, “Southern Rhônes.” Without missing a beat he said, “We can change that.” At the time I thought he was being patronizing, but eventually the lesson sunk in: when someone proudly offers you a taste from their collection don’t ask for your daily drinkers. In addition to producing many of the world’s finest wines France is still a great place to look for daily drinkers, and the Southern Rhône region remains no exception. The 2003 and 2005 vintages are good to very good across France. The 2004 is particularly good in the Southern Rhône, even though that vintage was not as noteworthy in many other regions.

Chapelle-St-Arnoux, Vacqueyras, Reserve Veilles Vignes, 2003

This hearty wine offers big fruit (cherry and currant) and a hint of spice. Imagine a less elegant, less complex (and much less expensive) Châteauneuf-du-Pape and you’re in the ballpark. Falls down a little on the finish, which doesn’t quite keep up with the wine’s initial boldness. Good value at $12 a bottle.

Pierre Amadieu, Côtes du Rhône, “Roulepierre”, 2004

Showing just how good 2004 was to the Southern Rhône, this medium bodied wine is dominated by cherry, berry and spice. The finish, while not long, is clean and elegant. This wine plays well with food, but is just fine by the glass. $13 is a great price for this wine; one could easily pay more for much less. Easy to drink and easy to like, it’s a reminder of why many of us started drinking Southern Rhônes in the first place.

Domaine Monpertuis, Vignoble de Ramière, Vin de Pays du Gard, Cuvee Counoise, 2005

This wine is imported by Rosenthal, a company that prides itself on finding small producers like Paul Jeune and bringing their wines to the American market. It’s 100% Counoise, a grape traditionally used in blends, but in M. Jeune’s hands it’s an unexpected pleasure. It’s technically not a Rhône wine; the grapes were grown across the river from Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Since the producer is known for his wines bearing that appellation and Counoise is a traditional Rhône varietal I’m comfortable considering this wine a Southern Rhône in all but name.

There’s nothing showy or overblown here; it’s unusual to find a $12 bottle that displays such restraint. Fruit and peppery spice give way to an acid, almost earthy finish. Weighty enough to pair with beef, yet round and smooth in the mouth without feeling heavy. Almost austere, in the best sense of the word. This is a real find: a remarkably well balanced food wine at this price. Those tired of the trend toward face-crushing, fruit-forward lower priced wines will find this wine something to get excited about.