Saturday, May 15, 2010

Sichuan Noodle Soup (Dan Dan)

Reader JonnyH commented that he didn't get the variety of foods I have available in NYC in Sydney. That left me a little surprised, having just visited Sydney on tour with Julian Casablancas. It's a world class food town. The good people from Frontier took us out for some of the best Thai I've had in my life at Arun Thai in Kings Cross. Of course, left to my own devices before a show I'm usually on the lookout for a hole in the wall serving up something exotic and tasty on the cheap. Which is how I ended up at Yee King on Sussex, right around the corner from BBQ King, where I had to stop for some takeaway BBQ pork. The Dan Dan noodles at Yee King were an inspiration. I've had many variations on this dish, but theirs sent me into my own kitchen immediately upon arriving home, where I reverse engineered the dish to my own specs. My wife was amused until she took her first taste. "Where did you learn to make this?" "Sydney," I replied.

Exotic ingredients you'll need:

Noodles - The hand pulled noodles at Yee King were good, but none of us are likely to pull noodles in our own kitchen. Japanese udon are a good substitute - the size and shape may be different, but the taste and texture are very similar. I use 1/4 lb cooked noodles per serving.

Chili Bean Sauce (Toban Djan) - Found in jars in Asian markets. Keeps well in fridge once opened. Also useful for making MaPo Tofu, which is my favorite tofu dish.

Chinese Chicken Broth - You can buy chicken broth in the supermarket, then turn it Chinese by simmering it with a pinch of sugar and a chunk of fresh peeled ginger. Alternately you can boil some chicken backs (or bones) for 45 min in enough water to cover with ginger, a pinch of sugar, salt and a glug of Chinese rice wine. Any leftover broth can be frozen for future use.

Shitake mushrooms: I prefer the fat ones from the Chinese greengrocer's, but the skinny Japanese style ones from the supermarket will work fine.

(This recipe makes two bowls of incredibly pedestrian, yet delicious noodle soup)

1/2 pound udon noodles, cooked, rinsed and divided between two bowls
1/3 pound ground pork
Tbs chopped ginger
2 Tbs Chili Bean Paste (or more to taste)
1 bunch scallions, chopped into thin rounds
4 shitake mushrooms, chopped
small handful of chopped peanuts
scant 3 cups Chinese chicken broth
oil for frying

Bring broth to a low simmer. In a small pan heat frying oil. Fry mushrooms over high heat until nearly cooked. Add ground pork and ginger and continue to fry until pork is nearly cooked. Add chili bean sauce, scallions and peanuts. Remove from heat. Pour hot broth over noodles in bowls, then divide fried mixture between the bowls. Eat with both chopsticks and a spoon, so as to enjoy every bit.

6 comments:

Unknown said...

Sounds so good - look forward to making it. xoxo

Anonymous said...

Nothing like a worldwide star rock tour to supply some righteous blog fodder. I am literally drooling, great post/recipe!

Crickie

Jmo said...

Sounds great JP! I have so missed your blog. I hope that there will be more to come in the next few weeks!! I will try this.. But I am not a fan of mushrooms no matter how much I have tried. Do you think the dish would be compromised without it?

JP Bowersock said...

Jmo, the mushrooms are not in every version of the dish I've had. I just happen to like them. They're completely optional.

I've also had it where the chili bean paste was replaced with a mix of beanut butter, soy sauce, oyster sauce, sugar, hot pepper, ginger, garlic, sesame oil and sichuan peppercorns. I use the paste because it's easy and tastes right. But I really ought to add the Sichuan peppercorns (toasted and ground) next time I make it.

Jmo said...

Thanks JP, I will have to check out our Asian market for that type of peppercorns. I don't think I have ever used them before. The alternate sauce sounds very similar to one I make and then put in pumpkin soup. Next time we get together lets cook!!

JP Bowersock said...

Jmo,

The Sichuan peppercorns are a numbing agent. The balance they're used to strike in Sichuan cooking is that of numbing your tongue at the same time the hot pepper is burning it. In a cuisine noted for being fiercely spicy you can imagine how that balance works. Might be more than you want to put your family through. I've heard tales of properly made Sichuan wreaking havoc with all but the most iron-clad digestions.

My recipe here is much more on the wussy side, but still packs a little punch.